Whether you already have a collection of succulents or are just starting to get excited about these works of art in nature, you'll find a wealth of tips and tricks on how cacti and the like can thrive and stay healthy. No matter what your own green thumb is like ...
The location is bright, sunny and warm. Succulents that come out of hibernation need to be slowly accustomed to full sun, lightly shading at the beginning. The plants begin to grow with increasing warmth and day length. When the weather is nice, the plants are sprayed with lukewarm water and carefully watered.
The plants now need a lot of warmth, light and fresh air. It is best to place them outdoors, on the balcony or on the sunny windowsill. In sunny weather, water regularly and sufficiently. Beware of waterlogging! Fertilize the plants occasionally with a commercially available liquid fertilizer.
Slowly reduce the amount of water and water sparingly from mid-October. The plants, protected from rain, can remain outdoors until the first frosty nights. The nightly cooling and humidity toughen them up for the upcoming winter rest.
Cacti are placed in a cool, bright and dry room with a temperature between 8 and 12 °C. However, cacti from the warm tropics, such as the Queen of the Night (Selenicereus grandiflorus), need 14 to 18 °C. Watering is completely dispensed with. Leaf succulents only receive enough water so that the leaves do not shrink. If no cool room is available, wintering can also be done at 12 to 20 °C. However, the plants should be watered lightly once a month. During the winter, warmer locations are unsuitable.
Most succulents grow between spring and fall. During this time, the root ball should never dry out completely. The amount of water depends on temperature and humidity. In midsummer, watering may be necessary every two to three days. In winter, most species need little or no water. If they are overwintered warm (e.g. in a heated living area), they must be watered lightly every two to three weeks so that they do not shrink too much. If they receive too much water, they begin to grow despite the lack of light. They grow longer than usual and are more susceptible to diseases as a whole - they decay, as it is called in gardening jargon. An exception are the Christmas and Easter cacti (genus Schlumbergera and Hatiora hybrids), which must never dry out completely throughout the year.
Depending on their origin and species, succulents love semi-shady to sunny locations. The "softer" the plant body is, the less it can tolerate the blazing sun. East and west windows are ideal, while south windows are too hot even for cacti in summer. Ideally, you should place your succulents in a sheltered outdoor spot from mid-May to autumn.
Cool and bright rooms with low humidity, such as poorly heated rooms or stairwells, are ideal. Temperatures between 10 and 14 degrees are ideal. Succulents from the warm tropics, e.g. the Queen of the Night (Selenicereus grandiflorus), Christmas and Easter cacti (genus Schlumbergera and Hatiora hybrids) and many Malagasy succulents, need 14 to 18 degrees.
When succulents and cacti begin to rot from the base of the stem, too much water at the wrong time is usually the cause.
If the plants are placed out of hibernation and into direct sunlight, they can subsequently develop "sunburn" in the form of unsightly, bright spots. This is only a visual disfigurement. Therefore, slowly accustom the plants to sunlight in spring.
Succulents are easy to care for and relatively rarely infested with diseases or pests. Leaf succulents are more often affected by diseases than cacti. Powdery mildew often occurs on Crassula (money tree), Echeveria and Kalanchoe species. The leaves first become unsightly blotchy and later fall off. The cause: either the humidity is too high or the plant receives too little fresh air. Or both. In this case, place the plant in a more suitable location.
The most common are mealybugs or mealybugs, which sit as small cotton balls between the leaves, warts or ribs. If the infestation is manageable, dab the pests with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. If that doesn't help, biological agents are available from specialist retailers. Mealybugs on cacti can be easily removed with a toothbrush. Then clean the plant with a strong stream of water.
Cacti are occasionally infested by scale insects. Spray the infested areas with leaf gloss or apply it selectively to the infested areas with a brush. If the air is too dry and warm, an infestation by spider mites can also occur. If left untreated, it can lead to the death of the plant. The only thing that helps here is spray treatment with the appropriate pesticide. At the same time, you should improve the site conditions for the plant. Also important: enough fresh air.
Healthy plants are more resistant to pest infestation and diseases. Therefore, regularly add liquid cactus fertilizer to the watering water during the growing season.
Whether a cactus blooms depends primarily on its age and cool overwintering. Some cacti can flower for the first time just a few years after sowing, while others – such as the golden ball cactus – can take almost half a century. In the case of the queen of the night (Selenicereus grandiflorus), in addition to a wintering temperature between 14 and 18 °C, a certain age is also required. The plant reaches flowering age when the shoots are about thumb-thick and at least one metre long.
Cacti are not known to be poisonous. Among the other succulents, all species from the genus spurge (Euphorbia) are considered poisonous. Some of the euphorbias, which are common as houseplants, resemble a candelabra cactus in appearance. The euphorbias have a white milky sap, which is very irritating to the skin, especially for the mucous membrane. If the plant is injured, the sap comes out. In case of skin contact, rinse the area immediately extensively with warm water. Also avoid drops on clothes or carpets. The dried milky sap causes stains that are almost impossible to remove.
Our collection is characterized by documented plant material with exact information on the location of the find at the natural site. We are therefore unable to accept privately owned plants and ask for your understanding.
The Zurich Cactus Society often lends a hand and takes over plants for its association collection. We will be happy to pass on your contact details. Contact us by phone or via the contact form .
It is also worthwhile to put out feelers in your circle of acquaintances or use online portals to find grateful buyers.
In new shoots, black-coloured and later dying leaves are common. This is usually due to too frequent watering, often accompanied by poor water drainage due to too compact substrate, or a poor opening in the bottom of the pot. The plants also tolerate stagnant water in the saucer very poorly.
If a columnar cactus has become too large, it can be rejuvenated safely and easily by "decapitating". The best time for this is when the plant is growing (spring and summer).
- Cut off the shoot tips cleanly with a sharp knife.
- The cut head part should be slightly "sharpened" at the cut, i.e. the ribs should be cut diagonally towards the cut.
- Disinfect the cut with charcoal dust or ash and let the headboard dry (vertically so that it does not bend) in a shady, airy and dry place until the cut has healed well. Within 4-8 weeks, the first root tips form from the cut.
- If these are visible, plant the head cutting in new, well-draining cactus soil.
You can find numerous video instructions on the Internet.
Your question is not listed? Our experts will be happy to provide advice and support, whether for questions about crop management, pests, plant identification or sources of supply:
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